Second FBA on New Look 6107

Thanks to the guidance of my mentor Claire Kennedy, I finally figured out how to fit New Look 6107 to myself!

After using the double FBA method she taught me, I managed to get the blouse to meet in front. All I had to do was get the excess at the waistline into darts. Claire suggested using two sets of darts at the waistline — a technique I’d seen on many 1940s blouses and dresses — so I tried that out.

newlook6107fitting_01

It worked…sort of. There was a lot of excess at the hip and sides and the darts wanted to keep lapping over all the way through the hem. I also wasn’t sure if I liked the double-dart look on this blouse.

So I pulled out the pins and tried again. With Claire giving all the advice and support I needed the entire way, I opened up the side seam and sculpted the waist dart while sweeping the excess into the side seam. I discovered that the back needed better fitting too, so I redid the back waist dart and swept a little excess forward into the side seam.

newlook6107fitting_03

It worked.

newlook6107fitting_04

It really worked.

Here’s a view of the inside showing how much I had to adjust the side seam and front and back waist darts.

newlook6107fitting_05

The only problem I can find is that the bust darts need work. There are still a few fitting issues there, but it’s just a matter of shifting the darts into the right place.

Actually…there’s one more problem. I don’t want to make this shirt up anymore. It really doesn’t have much of a place in my wardrobe because my tastes are changing. Trying on the muslin showed me that even though it fits and looks pretty good on me, it just doesn’t seem like my style right now. It doesn’t help that the fabrics I picked out for this blouse really don’t seem right for it anymore.

newlook6107fitting_06

The one on the left is a vintage-ish rayon challis, and the one on the right is a silky polyester. They’d work for this blouse pattern, but not for me in this blouse pattern. I hope that makes sense. Right now, I feel that they would be better suited for dresses. Both of them have more yardage than the blouse pattern requires, so I’d end up with awkward remnants that wouldn’t be much use for anything else. They’re both the right size for dresses, however, so I feel like that would be a more efficient use of them.

So was this all a waste of time? Absolutely not! I learned a LOT about fitting just from this one blouse pattern. I figured out how to do an FBA, how to adjust darts, how to sweep excess into the side seam or gather it into a double dart, and that I need to make slight adjustments in the back waist and extra adjustments in the front waist. I don’t feel bad at all about moving away from this pattern, especially since it has some other bothersome quirks that I’d rather not deal with, such as the awkward way you have to finish the neckline. It also needs a higher (and more modest) neckline and an extra button on the bottom front.

I’m going to move on to a different project: a princess seam blouse. One of my favorite go-to blouses was a black poplin princess seam blouse from Old Navy.  I’ve owned it for over a decade now, and I’ve gotten a lot of wear out of it. It’s from an era when Old Navy dared to make durable tailored clothes instead of the sloppy, gauzy, see-through “layering” garbage they have now. I put it with jeans or nice pants and dressed it up with nice jewelry for a classy-casual-not-sloppy look, and the princess seams fit nicely on my curves. I stopped wearing it a few years ago because it started to get that bedraggled look all cheap RTW clothes get, though to its credit, it took about 6-7 years of washing and wearing to get that way. Anyway, I have some black stretch poplin on hand and a good princess seam blouse pattern (with cup sizing!), so I’d like to recreate this great wardrobe staple.

As for the fabrics in the photo above, they’ll be made into dresses. I haven’t found the ideal pattern for the orange floral rayon, but I’m very tempted to use the black floral to make up retro Vogue 8875. It’s a very 1950s look that doesn’t look frumpy or dated, so it will work well for me. I don’t know what I’ll use for the redingote yet. Black or gray would be sensible and classy, but bright pink would certainly turn heads! I blame it all on Gertie. She’s the one who planted this redingote notion in my head earlier this year, and she’s only made me even more devoted to all things pink. I think I’ll just go with black because it’s easy to find, it’s so classy and sleek, and the floral print will be a nice pop of color against the black. I think I’d end up feeling really ridiculous in a bright pink redingote anyway.

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