Second Fitted Blouse Attempt: New Look 6107

In my continuing quest for a fitted blouse, I made a muslin from New Look 6107. I tried a size 16 to see if I could avoid the tent-like appearance of a size 18 and let the gathers at the shoulder provide some ease for my bust so I could skip the FBA.

That was a stupid idea.

newlook6107_01

The design of the blouse is quite flattering for my figure (though the darts and side seams could use some adjusting) and I like the pseudo-1940s yoke-plus-gathers look, but…yikes. It’s tight in the bust…

newlook6107_02

…and it has those telltale signs of needing a full bust adjustment. Note the gaps at the back of the neck and the front of the armhole.

Unfortunately, this damn pattern defies all standard FBA tutorials. It’s like it has a dart in the shoulders, only it doesn’t. It has a yoke with gathers and a vertical dart. Clearly, I need to trace a size 14 and add to the bust, but I don’t know if I need to add at the gathers, or fudge in a bust dart.

I think I may need to talk to Claire Kennedy again and make arrangements for one of her classes. I want to bring in different types of patterns — a blouse, a dress with bodice and skirt, a sheath, maybe something with a gathered bust, and something with princess seams — and have her break them down and show me how to do the FBAs. Normally I can teach myself all kinds of crazy sewing techniques, but this is so specialized and challenging that I just can’t do it on my own. I hate admitting that, but it’s true.

Side note: this pattern is more evidence that Simplicity patterns SUCK. It has the dumbest method of sewing facing to the neckline that I have ever seen. I can’t even describe it. It’s just outright mind-blowingly idiotic.

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